How To Build a Ramp for a Shed in an Afternoon

A four-inch rise from my shed to the ground may not seem significant, but it can be quite an annoying hassle to maneuver my lawn mower and snowblower in and out of. A ramp is definitely needed, but I didn’t want to deal with a permanent shed ramp. Instead, I decided to build a portable ramp that I could easily store in the shed when not in use. Your dimensions will likely differ from mine, but you can follow the same process to create a simple ramp for your shed.

Project Overview

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Outside Stringer	1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 48”
B	1	Middle Stringer	1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 46-1/2
C	1	Header	1-1/2” x 3-1/2”* x 29”
D	2	Vertical Blocking	1-1/2” x 2-9/16”* x 13-3/4”
E	2	Horizontal Blocking	1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 13-3/4”
F	1	Runner	1/2″ x 32” x 48”

* – To long side of angled edge

How to measure for a shed ramp

To determine the appropriate size for your shed ramp, you must understand the relationship between the ramp’s rise and slope.

First, measure your shed’s rise—the vertical distance from the ground to the shed floor. This measurement is crucial as it determines the height of your ramp and helps calculate its length.

While OSHA guidelines recommend a maximum slope of 1:3 (meaning one inch of height for every three inches of length) for slip-resistant ramps, consider what you’ll move in and out of your shed when choosing your slope. For non-permanent ramps, a gentle slope between 1:8 and 1:12 is often more practical.

To calculate your ramp length:

1. Measure your shed rise (in inches)
2. Multiply by your desired slope ratio

For the ramp we are planning to build, with a 4-in. rise and a 1:12 slope, the calculation is: 4-in. × 12 = 48-in. long ramp length.

If you preferred a steeper 1:8 slope, you would multiply 4-in. × 8 = 32-in. long ramp length.

Finally, measure the width of your shed doors—ours is 32-in. wide—and you will have all the measurements needed to start building.

Cut the 2×4 components

• Using a miter saw, cut the stringers (A and B), header (C), and blocker boards (D and E) to length from the treated 2x4s.
• Using a track saw or circular saw, cut the 1:12 ramp slope on the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers.
• Set your table saw to roughly 4.7 degrees and rip the top edge of the header (C) and vertical blocking pieces (D) so the longer side matches the cut list. Test the cut angle on a scrap piece to make sure it aligns with the stringers’ (A and B) angle.

Drill pocket holes in the blocking boards

Use a pocket hole jig to drill two pocket holes at each end of the vertical (D) and horizontal blocking (E) boards. These blocking boards will be secured between the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers.

Attach the header to the stringers

Using predrilled 2-1/2-in. exterior screws, secure the two outside stringers (A) to the ends of the header (C). Next, use the same predrilled 2-1/2-in. exterior screws to attach the middle stringer (B) so that it is centered on the header (C). Use clamps and the blocking boards (D and E) as spacers to ensure that the pieces are aligned and their tops are flush.

Attach the blocking

Fasten the blocking (D and E) between the stringers (A and B) with 2-1/2-in. pocket hole screws. Center the vertical blocking (D) 12-in. from the top of the ramp and the front edge of the horizontal blocking (E) 24-in. from the same.

Cut and install the runner

• Measure and cut the runner (F) from ground contact pressure-treated plywood using a table saw.
• Using a drywall T-square, draw lines on the plywood runner (F) that indicate the positions of the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers where you will secure it with screws. Drill mounting holes along these lines approximately eight inches apart with a countersink drill bit.
• Attach the runner (F) to the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers using exterior rated screws. Be sure to use shorter screws as you approach the beginning of the ramp, since the stringers become narrower at that point. I used 2-1/2-in. screws at the tall end of the ramp and gradually reduced their length to 1/2-in. screws at the short end.

Apply grip tape

Wooden ramps can become slippery when wet, so it’s important to add something that creates traction. Clean the top of the ramp to ensure it is dust-free, and apply grip tape to the surface of the runner (F). Use a utility knife to cut the grip tape to the appropriate width and space the pieces 1-1/4-in. apart.

FAQ

What wood to use for a shed ramp?

For an outdoor ramp, use wood and plywood that will hold up outdoors, such as pressure-treated, ground-contact lumber and exterior-rated plywood.

Should I use 2×4 or 2×6 for a shed ramp?

For heavy equipment, use 2×6 lumber to support the weight. For lighter equipment, such as a push mower or snowblower, 2×4 lumber is sufficient.

How to determine the length of a shed ramp?

The slope is calculated using a 1:12 slope ratio. For example, if your rise is 2-in., the slope will be 2 multiplied by 12, resulting in an overall ramp length of 24-in.

The post How To Build a Ramp for a Shed in an Afternoon appeared first on Family Handyman.

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