Showcase Your Child’s Creativity with This Clever Kid’s Art Frame.

Whether it be your child, a niece, or your best friend’s child, most of us have a small child who loves to share their artwork.  It often goes on the refrigerator or is tucked behind something to prop it up.  Before you know it, it is torn, crinkled, or maybe just disappeared.  I am guilty of finding a child’s art in my drawer and decided to do something about it by making a dual-function picture frame.  How about creating a kid’s art frame to display and store the art forever? Here are the steps to making your own.

Project Overview

[Please insert TA “ArtFrame.pdf” here with callouts.]

Cutting List

KEY	QTY	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Side	3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 13-1/4″
B	2	Top/bottom	3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 10-3/4″
C	1	Back slat	1/4″ x 1-1/2″ x 9-1/4″
D	1	Plexiglass	1/8″ x 9-1/2″ x 12″
E	2	Dry erase board	1/8″ x 9-1/2″ x 12″*

* – come this size

Cut channels

With 1×4 pieces cut a little longer than the dimensions above, cut three channels with the table saw that are 1/4-in. deep and 1/8-in. wide to accommodate the two 1/8-in. thick dry erase boards (E) and the plexiglass (D). Place the channels 3/8-in., 1-3/4-in., and 2-1/2-in. from the back edge of the 1×4.

When cutting channels for a specific material, always test the fit on a scrap piece of material. If the channel is too tight, open up the channel size a bit by moving the measurements over 1/32-in. and passing the wood through the table saw again.

Cut the plexiglass

Cut the plexiglass (acrylic or polycarbonate) sheet (D) to 9-1/2-in. x 12-in. on the table saw to match the purchased dry erase boards (E). The sheet should be inspected for small cracks and chips along the edge and, if possible, should be cut to prevent them from growing.

Spray paint the 1x4s

Spray paint the sides (A) and top/bottom (B) of the frame where the channels have already been cut.  Build up light layers of paint until you achieve a uniform coat of paint on all the surfaces of the 1x4s, including the insides of the channels. Paint touch-ups will be necessary; however, this step will accelerate the process and prevent paint drips on the inner corners of the frame.

Confirm materials fit in painted channels

After the paint has dried, check the fit of the dry-erase boards (E) and plexiglass (D) once more to ensure that the paint has not built up in the grooves and made them smaller. The channels should allow the dry-erase boards (E) and plexiglass sheet (D) to slide easily in and out of them. If they don’t, wrap sandpaper around an off-cut from the plexiglass and sand the inside of the channels until the dry-erase boards (E) and plexiglass (D) fit.

Miter the corners

Cut 45-degree miters at the ends of the top/bottom (B) and two sides (A). From miter point to miter point, the top and bottom (B) should measure 10-3/4-in. and the sides (A) 13-in. After you have cut all four pieces of your frame, join the corners for a dry fit before applying glue and nails.

Secure the bottom mitered corners 

Once you are satisfied with the dry fit, use wood glue and 18-gauge 1- 1/2-in. nails to secure the two sides (A) to the bottom (B) and create a “U”.  Use a wet rag to remove any excess glue.

Install the back slat

Slide the dry-erase board (E) into the back channel of the frame. To hold the square shape, install the back slat (C) from side to side (A), 1-1/2-in. down from the top of the “U”. Glue the back slat (C) to the back of the dry erase board (E) and to two sides (A).

Putty nail holes and touch up paint

To conceal nail holes, fill them with wood filler, allow them to dry, and then sand them back. Sand with a detail sander or a sanding block to maintain a nice flat edge.  Begin with 150-grit sandpaper to knock down the high spots, followed by 220-grit for a smooth finish. Be sure to sand in sequential order with the sandpaper.

Then touch up the spray paint.

Drill for magnets

For easy access to the interior of the art frame, rare earth magnets will be installed to secure the top (B) of the frame to the rest of the “U” shape in order to complete the square frame.

Use a 3/4-in. Forstner bit to predrill holes in the top (B) miters so that the magnets will sit flush.  Drill the holes between the two channels located toward the back of the frame. Repeat the process on the side pieces (A) – making sure the magnets line up between the top (B) and the side pieces (A).

Glue in the magnets

Secure magnets into place using CA glue. Allow the glue to pool around the magnet and dry well before testing.

Final assembly

Paint the miter faces with the embedded magnets.

Insert the dry-erase board (E) into the middle channel and the plexiglass (D) into the front channel.

Use magnets to hold the art you want displayed on the magnetic dry erase board (E) in the middle channel. When you want to switch it out, use the space between the two dry erase boards (E) as a storage area.

Cap off “U” shape of frame with top (B) connected by magnets to create a closed shadow box.

FAQ

What is the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?

Polycarbonate is stronger than acrylic, which tends to yellow over time. They are both referred to as Plexi glass, but Plexi is a copyright name.

Does is matter what kind of wood I make a picture frame or shadow box out of?

Both shadow boxes and picture frames generally don’t take on a lot of wear and tear or stress, the species of wood is less important than the profile of the wood.  It is best to have a sharp corner on the profile to get a nice union on a mitered joint. A rounded over corner will make it a bit more challenging to get a nice seam at the corners of a miter. It can be done but, may require additional sanding to have a seamless flow to the joint. It is also best to use kiln-dried wood to ensure the wood doesn’t have a high rate of shrinkage or warping, which, in time, will ruin the shape of your box for a picture frame or a shadow box.

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