The Right Way To Clean Work Boots for Long-Lasting Wear

Remove the laces

First, remove the laces to access the tongue and eyelets. If they are frayed or torn, discard them and plan to replace them at the end.

If they are still in good shape, soak them in a mixture of warm water and a few drops of laundry detergent for an hour. For heavily greased laces, use a few drops of Dawn dish soap to break down the grease. You can use an old toothbrush to help with the deep clean. No worn shoelace is going to be 100% stain-free, so focus on removing the grit and grime rather than achieving perfection. Hang them to air dry when finished.

Brush away debris

It’s as easy as it sounds: brush your boots of dirt, rocks, and debris using a horsehair brush. Horsehair is ideal because the bristles are soft enough to avoid scratching the leather but stiff enough to reach into the welt and the folds of the tongue.

Once finished, set this brush aside. Do not use your “dirt brush” for the conditioning or polishing steps, as you don’t want to rub old dirt back into the leather’s clean pores.

Burn off loose threads (optional)

On beat-up boots, look for frayed threads around the collar or eyelets. Take a lighter to quickly fan the flame over the loose thread. Bring the flame in to start the burn, pull back, and repeat until the thread burns down to a small, melted ball against the leather. Rub the charred end with your thumb to eliminate any burnt debris. Avoid holding the flame in one spot to prevent damaging the leather.

Scrub the midsole and welt

Before touching the upper leather, clean the “chassis” of the boot. Take your small horsehair brush, wet it and lather up some saddle soap. Apply the lather to the midsole and welt. For stubborn stains, let the soap sit for a few minutes, then scrub with a medium-bristle toothbrush. Be aggressive when scrubbing with the toothbrush. This deep cleans and will restore some of the color back in the midsole. Wipe away the saddle soap with a damp cloth.

Patience is required for this. For flat-bottom, light-colored wedge soles, use the back of the toothbrush to work the soap into stubborn stains in the midsole. Wipe away any visibly dirty soap when working it in, and reapply as needed.

Wash the leather

Now, lather up more saddle soap and hit the actual leather with the same horsehair brush used for the midsole, no toothbrush needed. Use a circular motion when cleaning the boot, but don’t be too aggressive. This helps penetrate the leather’s pores. Pay close attention to the tongue and creases where dirt hides.

Once finished, wipe away the suds with a dry cloth, then follow up with a damp cloth to remove every trace of soap. Don’t skip the damp wipe! Dried saddle soap can leave a sticky residue that attracts more dirt. Worse, it dries out the leather in the long run, which may cause it to crack.

Let the boots air dry for an hour or two. The leather must be completely dry for the conditioner to absorb properly.

Note: You only need saddle soap if the boots are heavily soiled or have never been cleaned. For regular maintenance, a simple brush and damp wipe are often sufficient.

Apply Leather conditioner

This is the most important part, but be aware that conditioners will darken your leather. Mink oil and beeswax darken it the most compared to carnauba conditioners, so test on an inconspicuous spot first.

I prefer applying by hand, but you can use a clean cloth. The heat from your hand helps melt the leather conditioner, making it easier for the leather to absorb it. Plus, you can feel the texture and see where the leather is the driest.

Spread it thin and even. You don’t want to over-saturate; just give the leather what it needs to stay supple. When the boots are fully conditioned, set them aside for 20 minutes for the leather to absorb the conditioner. After that, take your clean horsehair brush and gently brush the boot off of any residue, smoothing out the conditioner.

Note: Oversaturation can weaken the leather and may permanently discolor it.

Restore and polish

This can be two different steps, but we choose to use a two-in-one color restorer and polish; this will just be one.

Apply the color restorer with a clean cloth to spots on the boot that have faded or have deep scratches. Let it sit for 15 minutes.  Then, use the conditioner brush to lightly buff the spots with color restorer and polish. Go over each spot until you have achieved your desired color and sheen. Reapply and buff as needed.

Re-lace and let dry

Once the boots are dry to the touch, re-lace them with the new or clean shoelaces. Then set them aside for 24 hours before wearing. This ensures the boot has fully dried and has absorbed the conditioning, color-restoring products.

Your boots are now hydrated, protected, and ready for work.

FAQ

Can I use a synthetic brush instead of a horsehair brush?

Yes, but only for cleaning off tough dirt and grime. Try to avoid using this on leather as it will scratch it. Stick with horsehair brushes to do the job. The alternative to horsehair brushes can be boar’s hair brushes. They are a bit softer and not as stiff, but still work great.

What is the best conditioner for leather boots?

Everyone has different opinions on this, and I certainly have mine. This comes down to how much darkening of the leather you care to have and how long the conditioner lasts. There are many different types of conditioners, but the most common are: mink oil, beeswax, and carnauba cream. Mink oil tends to wear off faster than beeswax and carnauba cream. Mink oil and beeswax tend to darken leather more than carnauba cream. Carnauba seems to be the winner here, but some don’t like it. The best way to find the right conditioner is to test each product until you find what works for you.

Can I use Dawn dish soap on leather boots?

No. The degreasing properties of dish soap can strip leather of its natural oils, leaving it dry, cracked, and damaged.

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