How To Make Textured Plaster Wall Art Panels

My passions and extensive experience in decorative finishes and textures make me extra excited to share this project with you.  Plaster wall art is one of those things where even if you can’t quite figure out how it was done, it looks so intriguing it makes you WANT to know more.  Then, when the “how-to” secrets are unveiled, you realize how easy it is.

I truly believe the best techniques are not meant to be difficult. They are meant to create an illusion – in this case, it looks heavier than it is.  So gather your tools and materials as I help you explore the world of plaster wall art!

Cut the screen

Check the size of your 1/2-in. plywood backing board. Then, cut the fiberglass window screen to be eight inches larger than it in both directions (so there are four inches of overhang on each side). You can always trim it down later if desired, but once you decide the size of the folds, it’s better to have too much screen than not enough.

Staple screen to one side of the board

Flip the plywood backing board over and work from the back. Start securing the screen mesh by stapling to the back of one side using 1/4-in. staples. Install a staple every couple of inches along the entire side.

Create undulations and folds with the screen

Turn the screen and plywood backing board face up and play with the slack in the screen to create undulations and folds. On the top side of the board, staple a few staples along the same edge you stapled the screen to on the bottom. This will help you start that first undulation in the screen. When you find a placement that feels right, use the staple gun to set the undulation in place. You can always remove the staple, adjust the screen, and staple it in place again if you are not satisfied with where it lands.

Make sure all staples are well seated and flush with the surface by using a small hammer.

Finish by stapling the screen all around the back of the board and pounding the staples flush so that the plaster wall art will hang flush to the wall when it is complete.

Note: If you don’t have a staple gun, you may use a hot glue gun. Just be careful not to make the glue beads too pronounced because you will have to build up the plaster to hide them.

Cover the screen with plaster cast bandages

Using an inexpensive chip brush and clean water, adhere strips of plaster cast bandages covering all the screen mesh and folding over flush on the edges. Cut the plaster bandages into manageable strips. Use the brush to lay the bandages flat and avoid wrinkles or bunching up.  Wet the chipping brush with water to wake up the plaster and set the bandages in place.

Don’t worry if the surface feels rough or uneven at this stage. You will slowly build up to get the smooth finish desired. Cover all the screen mesh and work your way around the sides by wrapping the plaster bandages around the back. Allow to dry for at least 12 hours or until hard to the touch.

Brush on a layer of runny mix joint compound plaster

Mix a runny batch of powdered joint compound with water. The water and plaster powder mix should be thick like a chalky paint or runny pancake mix.  To delay the drying and curing of the plaster, use cold water. Plasters are designed to set quickly through a chemical reaction.  The warmer the water you mix into the powder, the faster the setting time.

Mix the plaster in small batches until you get a sense of its setup time. Use the brush to smooth as you go. To manipulate the plaster as you are working it into position, feel free to dip the brush in water and use it to create a slurry and blend the plaster as you go. If the plaster sets up too fast, add more water and mix it to the desired watery consistency.

Allow to dry and apply a second coat in the same manner until you have built up enough to cover the texture of the bandages.

Smooth out rough spots with sandpaper

Once the second layer of plaster has completely dried, use 150-grit sandpaper to sand down all the rough spots on the plaster surface. Make sure you hit all the edges and get rid of lumps.

Patch holes and imperfections

If you find you have small holes, cracks, or imperfections in the plaster cast bandage layer, fill the areas with a thin layer of plaster. Allow it to dry, and sand it back if needed.

The secret to this whole process is the freedom to build up as many layers as you wish to achieve the smooth finish you desire.

Smooth the surface with water

Using a brush with water will wake up the plaster and allow you to make the surface even smoother. Smooth the edges and the surface with just water and a brush. Allow to dry well.

Brush on white gesso

Brush on two separate coats of white gesso, allowing ample dry time between each. Gesso is part paint and part plaster. It will continue to fill in imperfections and give you a smooth finish while sealing the plaster, making it more durable.

Mix and apply the final grey color

To get the desired gray tone, start with a full bottle of white gesso and slowly add small amounts of black until you get the gray tone you like.  Make the grey more intense by adding more black gesso to the white gesso.  Take note of the final color when it is dry.  Paint is never the same color when it is wet. Use a hair dryer to speed up the dry time.

Note: Make sure you mix a bit more gesso than you think you will need to avoid having to mix the paint again.  It is almost impossible to mix the same color twice. You want one “dye lot” or one batch of paint mix to ensure the same color value on all three panels.

Finish polyurethane

To fully seal the surface of your piece, brush on a coat of clear satin polyurethane finish. If you want a softer look, you may apply a matte finish instead of a satin finish.

Install hanging hardware

Install hanging hardware.  The plaster wall art pieces are much lighter than they look and will not require heavy-duty hardware. It will be helpful to have someone help you by holding the piece when installing the hanging hardware. I didn’t install it while I was working on it because I didn’t want it rocking the piece around.

FAQ

What is the difference between plaster of Paris and joint compound plaster?

Plaster of Paris sets faster, which places pressure to work faster.  It is ideal for small, detailed repairs or projects and making molds, whereas joint compound is much more appropriate for building up thin layers over larger surfaces. Plaster of Paris tends to crack less than joint compound, but on the other hand, Joint compound is easier to sand than plaster of Paris.

Both plaster of Paris and joint compound have wonderful benefits; however, for plaster wall art, joint compound allows for flexibility and less effort when smoothing out the surface with either sandpaper or a wet brush.  Joint compound is usually less expensive than plaster of Paris.

The post How To Make Textured Plaster Wall Art Panels appeared first on Family Handyman.

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